This Brenham Joint Cooks Its Meat the Old-school Way, and Locals Love It

Pork ribs, sausage, chicken, sides, and rainbow cake from Nathan's BBQ in Brenham.Nathan’s BBQ shares the small town of Brenham with some serious barbecue competition. Truth Barbeque, to the west, made the top ten in our latest barbecue list, and LJ’s, on the east, is a new member of the top fifty. Nathan’s has been around longer than both and, as pitmaster John Schulze explains, what separates it from the others is that at Nathan’s, “we do it the old-school Texas way.” By that he means direct-heat barbecue.Schulze mans the steel pits early in the morning and loads them up for the lunch rush. He starts by lighting a bag’s worth of B&B oak charcoal in each of six fireboxes, and adding pecan logs on top of that fire. The meat goes on directly above the hot…

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